Cusco: View of the Cathedral

Called Qusqu by the aboriginies, with its origins in the Aymara language, the Spanish conquistadors translated this to Cuzco before the mayor finally officialized the modern spelling Cusco in 1976.  Contrary to many beliefs, Cusco was not originally an Incan city but many of the original walls and structures were built by the Killke people between 900-1200AD before the Incas occupied the fortress in the 13th century.  Once the Incas took over, Cusco developed as the capital of the Inca Empire and the city’s growth is credited to Sapa Inca Pachacuti who is believed to have transformed it into an empire.  The Incas built on top of Killke structures, though many of these were destroyed after the Spanish invaded in 1533.

Indigenous women in Cusco

Much like the Incas before them, the Spanish colonized Cusco by building on top of previous structures, using old walls and foundations as the base for new construction.  Many of these colonial buildings still stand today, giving Cusco an authentically colonial feel and this mixture of cultures and civilizations is what makes it such an important historical site.  This architectural heritage is best seen in the Barrio de San Blas, Calle Hatun Rumiyuq, Church of La Merced, the Cathedral of Santo Domingo, and the Plaza de Armas.

Cusco sits at an elevation of approximately 3,300 meters (10,800 feet), giving it a highland climate that is dry and temperate but can get quite cool during the dry season from April to October.  In 2006, it was discovered that Cusco has the highest ultralight level of anywhere on Earth, so make sure to wear sunscreen and protective clothing despite the low temperatures (sunburns are not cool, people).  Aside from the historical sites within the city, the neighboring areas are full of ancient ruins and provide for endless exploration opportunities.

Machu Picchu

Cusco is often considered only a stopping point on the way to Machu Picchu, though the city has so much to offer that this truly is a shame.  Machu Picchu is, of course, spectactular, though Cusco is the oft overlooked gem of southern Peru.  Get lost on the ancient streets and picture the hustle and bustle during the height of the Incan empire to truly appreciate the significance of this city that grew from civilizations literally building on top of each other.

(PeruDiscover has many options for a trip to Cusco. Click here, to see our tours in Peru.)

Inca female figurine buried with sacrificed child, Cerro el Plomo, Chile, c1500

Cusco and Machu Picchu are both historical sites of great cultural importance.  Finding Machu Picchu was one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of its time and has allowed us to glimpse into the daily lives of ancient Incan civilization.  Yet there have been other incredible discoveries on the high snow-tipped peaks of the Andes: mummies.  We’re not talking about the scary mummies that chase Brendan Frasier around Egypt in Hollywood adventure films.  Incredibly preserved, the Incan mummies of the Andes have taught us much about ancient rituals, clothing, lifestyle, beliefs and daily habits without once chasing us through dark passages or inflicting us with plagues.

Probably the most famous of these mummies is Juanita, also known as the Inca Ice Maiden and Lady of Ampato, who was found in southern Peru in 1995 on the summit of Mount Ampato.  Not the first child mummy to be found in the Andes (the first was found in Chile in the 1950s), Juanita is by far the best preserved.  Not typically mummified, she was actually frozen in a process that has preserved her hair, skin, organs, clothes and even the contents of her stomach.

Juanita was a small girl, from 11-15 years old, and was selected to be a sacrificial offering to the Incan gods in the mid-15th century.  Nearby her burial site, two more mummies were found as an apparent simultaneous offering along with many items such as food, statues, tools and adornments.  After studying the incredibly well-preserved mummy, it was found that Juanita had been in good health and had eaten a meal several hours before her death.  Buried with her were bowls, pins, and gold and silver statues as offerings and grave goods.  She had been wrapped in a bright tapestry, a cap made from red macaw feathers, and an alpaca shawl, all garments from the Inca capital of Cusco that suggest a noble birth and upbringing.

Juanita, 500 years old, found in 1995 and now preserved in the Sanctuary Museum, Arequipa

While Juanita is very special to archaeology and our understanding of ancient Incan civilization, there have been past discoveries and are sure to be future ones.  Conditions on Mount Ampato, at around 20,000 feet elevation, are difficult and it is impossible to know how many Inca mummies are hiding in the ice.  Each discovery provides new insight into this rich culture and helps us understand the incredible civilization that built wonders like Machu Picchu and Cusco.  On your next hike through the Inca capital, look around and imagine Juanita walking through these historic streets over 500 years ago.  Thanks to her, we now have a much better idea of what her people were like and how they lived.

Every day Lima is moving increasingly away from its ‘mere’ position as the gastronomic centre of Latin America to become an internationally-recognized exponent of haute cuisine. Although the museums and colonial centre are good reasons to spend a day or so before heading out to the Andes or elsewhere, the culinary delights of Lima are definitely sufficient reason to stay on for at least a day (in our humble opinion). Here is our pick. If your stay in the capital is limited, and you only have time to visit one restaurant, we would strongly recommend you select one offering typical seafood specialties like ceviche and tiradito and their many variations. For more nights, you will probably want to vary your menu. Bon appetit!

1 ) Astrid & Gaston

(Cantuarias 175, Miraflores – Tel 511-242-5387)

A great exponent of Peruvian haute cuisine. Among the World’s Best 50 Restaurants, S. Pellegrino.

2 ) Central

(Santa Isabel 376, Miraflores – Tel 511-242-8515)

An electric combination of Peruvian tradition and influences from other places, with great respect for ingredients and techniques.

3 ) Rafael

(San Martin 300, Miraflores – Tel 511-242-4149)

Audacious, creative, and the curator of an absolutely impeccable culinary style, singular cuisine d´auteur with influences from other continents.

4 ) Malabar

(Av. Camino Real 101, San Isidro – Tel 511-440-5300)

Surprising dishes arising from the interest in Peru´s extraordinary regional ingredients. Among the World’s Best 100 Restaurants, S. Pellegrino.

5 ) Valentino

(Manuel Bañón 215, San Isidro – Tel 511-441-6174)

Great food and superb service, sophisticated and enchanting European style.

6 ) Perroquet (Country Club Lima Hotel)

(Los Eucaliptos 590, San Isidro – Tel 511-611-9007)

Exquisite specialities, impeccable service and exclusive atmosphere. Elegant decoration and redined details.

7 ) Cala

(Av. Circuito Vial Costa Verde, Playa Barranquito, Espigón B2, Barranco – Tel 511-252-9187)

The beach, view, and environment blend perfectly with the food, a tasty fusion of Mediterranean and Peruvian cuisine.

8 ) Maras (The Westin Lima Hotel)

(Las Begonias 450, San Isidro – Tel 511-518-6510)

Gastronomic meeting point offering modern Peruvian cooking that emphasises typical flavours while giving diners fresh sensations.

9 ) Herve

(Atahualpa 195, Miraflores – Tel 511-446-5164)

A contemporary bistro, impeccable to the last detail, the restaurant even makes its own bread, ice cream and sorbets. Most of the ingredients are of organic origin.

10 ) La Mar

(Av. La Mar 770, Miraflores – Tel 511-421-3365)

The restaurant that has taken the cebicheria concept to another level.

 This is by no means an exhaustive list. Lima’s restaurant choice is simply stunning and there are plenty of other good restaurants to be found. For example, for steaks we would also recommend La Carreta, and for location La Rosa Nautica (because it is on the end of a pier, overlooking the Pacific). You may wish to locate something closer to your hotel, and your concierge should be able to give some good suggestions. Alternatively, a great local guide you can buy on arrival in Lima is ‘Lima’s Gourmet Guide’, available in most bookshops and recognised as the best gastronomic guide. All descriptions are given in both Spanish and English. There is also a companion guide for the rest of the country – worthwhile if you want to check out other top restaurants as you travel around.

For longer stays seeing sights in and around the capital and the rest of Peru, see Peru tours.

Heading to Cusco or Lake Titicaca? Then its probably necessary for a quick briefing on the symptoms, prevention and treatment of altitude sickness to make the most of any Peru tour.

Altitude sickness doesn’t affect everyone – great news, right?  For those of us who it does affect, there is one simple way to avoid it:  acclimatization.  A great way to acclimatize yourself and avoid altitude sickness on your trip to Cusco (11,500 feet / 3,500 meters) is to first visit the nearby Sacred Valley of the Incas and Ollantaytambo (9,000 feet / 2,750 meters) where you can take in the sights of ancient Incan architechure and practice your Quechua with the locals.  After a couple of days here, you’re ready to head to the Incan capital of Cusco and then on to Machu Picchu.

Coca tea helps combat altitude sickness - without risk

Didn’t have time to acclimatize and starting to feel a little out of sorts?  Symptoms of altitude sickness include: lack of appetite and nausea, fatigue, dizziness, insomnia, shortness of breath, nosebleeds, rapid pulse, drowsiness and diarrhea.

What should you do if you start having these symptoms?  First thing is to stay hydrated!  Simple dehydration can exacerbate the effects of altitude sickness so be sure to drink at least 4 quarts of water every day.  Try to avoid alcohol and tobacco products as these contribute to dehydration.

In the Andean region, altitude sickness has historically been treated with leaves of the coca plant.  No, this is not a drug (at least any more than caffeine is) and its effects are very similar to those of coffee.  The leaves can either be chewed or made into an herbal tea that help stave off the symptoms of altitude sickness. It has a greenish yellow color and a mildly bitter flavor similar to that of organic green tea.  Still not convinced?  Even Princess Anne and Pope John Paul II drank coca tea on their trips to the region!

To recap, altitude sickness can present quickly and suddenly, so the best treatment is prevention.  Ensure you are well-hydrated, well-rested and acclimatized to higher altitudes before ascending.  If you begin to feel ill, drink more fluids and do not go any higher.  Try a cup of coca tea and continue drinking it with meals to help alleviate your symptoms.  Seek medical attention if your symptoms do not improve or if you are having trouble breathing.

Altitude sickness can be serious but with the proper precautions should not affect your trip to Machu Picchu or Lake Titicaca.  If you are having mild symptoms, you should still be able to continue your ascent at a careful pace.  Have fun on the Inca Trail!

Before heading to Cusco, remember to visit the Sacred Valley to get yourself acclimatized.

My name is Laurence, and I’m a boarder at Sevenoaks School in the UK, but have the pleasure of living in Costa Rica! The benefits of such a global lifestyle is that we have to travel alot, and that is what brought me to Peru. And what a trip, we visited the Amazon, both Manu in the south and Iquitos and surroundings in the north, Arequipa and Colca, Lake Titicaca, and of course Cuzco and Machu Picchu. Of all these wonders, what most sticks in my mind was the incredible Inca Trail.

The Inca Trail - what a place we stopped at for a break!

Seat of past Incan glory, Peru is home to an immensely rich culture, the fusion of Amerindian and the invading Spanish influence. This has resulted in a fascinating country, one filled with architectural, cultural, culinary, and artistical delights. Its capital, the city of Lima which was founded in 1535 by the infamous conquistador Francisco Pizarro ‘looter of the Americas’, it is certainly of interest, but the more modern parts are certainly worth giving a miss. Perhaps take a look of the very attractive old city, where the old colonial Spaniards built the centres of administration and government for the future nation of Peru. I didn’t stay too long in the capital, for good or for worse, but quickly left towards the Andes, and so I leave an incomplete view of Lima.

The colonial church of Santo Domingo sitting atop the ruins of the Inca temple Koricancha

Cuzco, on the other hand, certainly tickled my interest, and that of everyone I know who has had the pleasure to visit such an incredible city. In no part of the world can you so clearly see the clash and eventual fusion of two such different cultures. The architecture of Cuzco clearly demarcates the two – most of the buildings in the city, particularly in the city centre, are built on Inca bases. A building, then, starts at the base with the smooth, perfectly hewed stonework characteristic of the Incas, so notable for its perfect fit without the use of any form of adhesives or cement, followed by the buildup of Spanish masonry on top. An excellent example, and my favourite building in town, the magnificent Renaissance-gothic cathedral, la Catedral de Santo Domingo, is partially built on top of the Incan temple of Coricancha.

The cathedral interior is powerful evidence of the immeasurable wealth of the former Inca empire – the inside is simply packed with the most dense, intricate, and stunning goldwork, as well as including the famous Black Cross, a famous relic brought out on holy days and festivals. Theologically exciting, too are the many figures in the cathedral that reveal the very unique hybrid faith of the area, which combines elements of Incan polytheistic deities, such as that of Viracocha, the creator-God, and Pachamama, the equivalent of Mother Earth, welded to Jesuitical and Dominican Catholicism, imported by Spanish conquistadors purportedly to make Christian salvation accessible to them, but also very importantly to subjugate them to the Spanish Crown.

From Cusco, I embarked on the famous Inca Trail. Starting off with a delicious breakfast with an international group of hikers (rather odd lot, really), the first half of day one was an absolute doddle. But everything after that was VERTICAL. Intensely exhausting, but exhilarating at the same time, the Inca trail is the hike most memorable and satisfying to me. Walking past enormous ruins of palaces and forts, the exhaustion somehow turned into euphoria. But the best, of course, was waking at the crack of dawn on the final, fourth day, and hiking to the Gate above Macchu Picchu, just as the sun was rising, bathing the entire complex in golden, soft scarlet light. It was magical, something no picture could ever convey. Pity a llama spat at me on the way down to the actual ruins.

Inca Trail - Inca ruins we walked through on the side of the mountain

I must stress: there is no better way than to explore Macchu Picchu than walking the Inca Trail. It allows you to ‘earn’ the ruin’s beauty through hard work. Of course, if you are of the lazier variety, there is also an ‘Express’ Inca Trail less demanding to the legs, but less rewarding, of course. By the way, do sample the legal and innocuous coca leaves that are used as a famous energy-enhancer and altitude-acclimatiser… it might not be as powerful as its more potent cousin, cocaine, but it sure will help fuel you up the hill!

Thinking of a trip to Peru? The rapidly-growing video series by Peru’s government tourist agency, PromPeru, could be useful. This assumes 2 things: you like destination videos before you visit a country; and you are not allergic to ‘promotion-speak’. Yes, these videos aim to promote the country as a tourist destination and this is evident. Many start in a similar way. But they can give an overview, some interesting facts, and there is some good photography.

YouTube is a good location for these videos. PromPeru, using the name “VisitPeru”, has their own channel, but this is best if you are looking for videos in German, Chinese, Portuguese, French, or Japanese. There are surprisingly few in English there – at least now! The initial trailer is worth watching, as there is no voice over.

Here are some of the videos we looked at in English. The links open up in YouTube:-

Peru, Land of the Inkas
A reasonable introduction to the country

Lima, the city of Experiences
An 8 minute overview, only reaches world-famous gastronomy in the 5th minute!

Pisco, Cultural heritage of Peru – Part 1

Pisco, Cultural heritage of Peru – Part 2

Peru: history & culture

Peru: world’s catalogue

Choquequirao, The Cradle of Gold – Part 1

Choquequirao, The Cradle of Gold – Part 2

Peru: a true paradise of birds

PromPeru has quite a few videos of birding in different regions. Unbelievably, and just behind Colombia, Peru has the second highest number of bird species in the world. 1879, of which 139 are endemic, according to Wikipedia. A brief look at the list, where most families have many species, shows that the sparrow family only has one sparrow species. Can the sparrow be the rarest bird in Peru, we wonder?

There’s no denying the immense size or remoteness of this reserve in the headwaters of the Amazon. Twice the size of Yellowstone Park, it abounds with wildlife and aquatic life. The only way to reach it is by boat from Iquitos, so it is one of the still relatively-untouched marvels in the world.

A new boat is now offering cruises there: the Aria, a 24-crew-member boat with 16 luxury cabins and 4 nature guides. Pictures below:-

Susan Newby, a frequent traveller, reports at length on the trip she recently took:-

FRIDAY, 26 November, arrived LIMA to a stunning sunset at 1830 from KLM flight from Manchester via Amsterdam 22 hours after leaving home. Long delays with luggage but finally at 1930 met and assisted by Alex, given vouchers/internal flight tix, and driven to EL CARMEL HOTEL in the Miraflores district. Amazed by the heavy traffic which Alex explained is ‘normal’ and the journey took one hour plus. EL CARMEL is a comfortable hotel ideal for overnight stay.

SATURDAY, 27 November, early wake up call at 0315, light breakfast and awaited transfer to airport at 0400 for flight to Arequipa departing 0600. Feeling very relieved to be aboard, enjoyed the flight on a clear blue sky, fine, sunny day to AREQUIPA with marvellous views over the Colca Valley and Colca Canyon. Arequipa has an awesome setting overlooked by three volcanoes, Misti, Pichu Pichu and Cachani.

Arrived 0815 and met at AREQUIPA airport by Katrina, who transferred me to CASA ANDINA Hotel and arranged for immediate check in to my room. Casa Andina is well placed near to the main square so had a walk-about amidst the 70 degree weather. Attractive Spanish colonial buildings, bowler hated and colourfully dressed locals, fascinating shops…. I believe Arequipa is the alpaca woollen wear capital of Peru!

Collected by mini bus (Marciel tour guide) at 1400 for tour of the city and environs with great views to the volcanoes. Interesting time in the colonial old town, Cathedral, Company Church of the Jesuits, Main Plaza and the Santa Catalina Convent – originally founded in 1579. Since its inception, women from diverse social backgrounds have entered the convent to serve as cloistered nuns. Constructed from Sillar, a white volcanic stone, the convent is considered the most important and impressive colonial structure in the city – like a small town in itself. Enjoyed evening at the hotel with supper entertained by a typical Andean (Pan Pipes) style band. Even bought their CD!

IMPRESSION OF AREQUIPA – very friendly inhabitants, fascinating city worthy of at least 2 full days of exploration, not forgetting the nearby Colca Valley and Canyon. Better weather here than Lima although high levels of radiation. An excellent place to start one’s rise to the high Andes, Puno and Lake Titicaca, with risk of altitude sickness.

SUNDAY, 28 November, another early wake up call for Lan Peru flight to Cuzco via Juliaca at 0600. Marjorie transferred me to airport for smooth flight to Juliaca, arriving 0645. Although I had been expecting much cooler weather because of height above sea level, the sun shone hotly (70F) with intense blue sky. Sunscreen recommended. Met by guide Susanna and driver. Juliaca (pop. 200,000) has a feeling of a frontier town and in fact there is a lot of contraband activity here.

Drove to SILLUSTANI burial site at 4,000 metres and higher than Juliaca and Puno. Walked very slowly on instruction from Susanna and told to wear a hat because of strong sun! Very peaceful here surrounded by lake (flamingos), and groves of trees. Standing on the shores of the pristine Laguna Umayo, Sillustani is famous for its chulpas 9circular burial towers) some of which are more than 12 metres high. The Collas who dominated the area before the Incas buried their leaders in towers that are wider at the top than the base. Other lakes in the area with islands one inhabited by vicunyas (small llama type species- protected). From Sillustani, we drove to an alpaca and guinea pig farm. Hosted by the farmer who served home grown warm potatotes still in skins, showed us his weaving skills with alpaca wool and a fine ‘herd’ of guinea pigs, the young ones at about 4 months old bred for meat. Photo shoot with dainty alpaca!

Drove back to main road and on to Puno. Very hilly area. First views of PUNO and LAKE TITICACA were astounding and I couldn’t quite believe I was here looking down on this town and the highest navigable lake in the world at 3.800 metres (12,500 feet) above sea level. Drove down the narrow streets leading to the lake and arrived at the centrally located Hotel LA HACIENDA where I would spend the next two nights. Susanna was a very good, knowledgeable guide and she had given me a great introduction to this high area of Peru. She made sure my room was ready so that I could check in even though it was only about 1130. Lovely corner room with views to mountains surrounding Puno. I was feeling headachy, tired and weary and decided to relax – in fact, it was the altitude sickness kicking in! So I spent the afternoon in bed… trying to obey instructions about taking it easy until one acclimatises to all those feet above sea level.

Feeling guilty at not exploring Puno, I headed out later into the town but after buying some coca tea sweets, I slowly walked back to the hotel for a quiet evening. Sunday is a highly respected day in Catholic Peru and unlike the UK where people are more interested in shopping on Sundays, here in Peru there were bands, marches, celebrations as well as the populace attending church. Coca tea is the drink to imbibe to combat altitude sickness although not advisable to drink at night. The hotel had a comfortable dining room where I had a club sandwich and coke later (not very Peruvian!)

MONDAY, 29 November, after a hearty breakfast and feeling much better, I was collected by the Lima Tours tour guide and taken by mini bus to the port where I joined a group of tourists from Austria and Portugal for a motor boat (called Jumbo) day tour on LAKE TITICACA.

We had an excellent guide called Estavan -very knowledgeable and helpful. Numerous islands are sprinkled across the lake and the inhabitants cling to a traditional way of life centred around fishing, farming and weaving. First ‘port of call’ to the UROS people who live on huge floating reed islands like huge straw like nests. We alighted ashore and were given a demonstration by Orlando, ‘King’ of this particular island, showing their way of life and how the reed islands are made. A new king is chosen each year. The islanders laid out their wares for sale such as tapestry chain stitch cushion covers and pottery. Several of us took a Mercedes Benz (posh) reed boat to one of the other Uros islands. From there back on the motor boat and sailed about 30 minutes up the lake to the large and hilly island of Taquile. One of the most industrious islands, its walled paths are crowned with rustic arches and dotted with Inca and pre Inca ruins.

We climbed via one of these walled paths to the main village where we had a very tasty lunch at a farm and were entertained by a dance troupe (in fact, I was ‘hijacked’ to take part in the dancing!). Lots of terracing to take advantage of every piece of land. Sheep and cattle only in the way of livestock. The local population have a life expectancy of 85 years due to their mainly vegetarian diet. Attractive main plaza with marvellous views over Lake Titicaca. Local dress for ladies is bowler hat, bright coloured cardigan and skirt, often with woollen footless stockings. The men wear black hats, often trilby style, white shirt, black waistcoat and trousers with embroidered sash – the effect on both men and women is very striking. Bracing walk along the terraced hillside back to Jumbo – a local shepherdess with her herd of sheep
was a fascinating insight into local life as she followed us down to the lower terraces on her way to fresh pastures. Took us almost 2.5 hours to motor back to Puno, arriving about 5pm.

All agreed it was a long journey back. Met at port and taken by minibus and dropped off at Hacienda Hotel. Felt like exploring the town as I was feeling better and becoming acclimatised to the altitude. Browsed around the many shops and bought my husband an alpaca sweater. Prices and quality very good. Later on that evening, I paid another visit to the Hacienda hotel restaurant and had a club sandwich (like a meal in itself).

TUESDAY, 30 November – up bright and early to greet a beautiful sunny day, good breakfast and a representative arrived to take me to the bus station for the INKA EXPRESS to CUZCO (USD40). Easy check-in for coach which was very comfortable with only 8 passengers to share 40 odd seats! – English speaking tour guide (for the 5 English speakers) called Luis and a German-speaking tour guide for the other three passengers. We were very well looked after including a hostess serving drinks throughout the 9 hour journey including 5 cultural stops across the altiplano to Cuzco. For me, this was one of the highlights of my visit to Peru. From Puno, we passed through hustling and bustling Juliaca, not a pretty place but very interesting to observe a real working town. From Juliaca, and wide, open spaces… flat valley floor then hills growing ever higher. Farms, cattle grazing(Jersey type). Blocks of dried out dung for use as fuel for fires.

First stop was PUCARA and its museum and its ‘peasant’ church (although I thought it was quite fine). Overlooking the plaza filled with local colour! Local dress prevalent aka bowler hats, etc. We also visited the pre-Columbian complex consisting of six stepped stone pyramids. From Pucara, travelling ever higher with jagged peaks in distance but the road kept winding along the valley floor. Strip grazing i.e. grazed by stock then planted with corn/potatoes etc. Herds of llamas and alpacas (llamas = long tails and alpacas tails tucked in). Typical but spectacular Andean scenery with local villages, herds of llamas and alpacas, sheep, horses, farming scenes with tractors cultivating the land. Stopped for lunch which was delicious Peruvian food including great music by a local band.

Reached the high point of the journey on LA RAYA PASS at 14,300 feet but able to gaze up at ever higher glacier covered mountains…. and still, even at over 14,000 feet, there was shopping for the enthusiast with about 10 stalls selling colourful wares from jumpers to hats to trinkets.

Other stops were at the Temple of RAQCHI which contains the ruins of a temple built by the Inca Pachacutec for the god Wiracocha – fascinating place with warehouses and other buildings around the temple that served as dwellings for priests, servants and farmers.

The ‘Sistine’ Church at ANDAHUAYLILLAS was quite wonderful and could be compared to its namesake in Italy.

In my opinion, the Inka Express is the perfect way to travel in between Puno and Cuzco making the visitor appreciate the stunning variety of the landscape and people of this high region of Peru.

Warmly welcomed at CUZCO bus station by Carlos and transferred to the ECO INN for my two night stay. Carlos provided me with welcome pack to Cuzco and details of my tour next day. Very pleasant room, spacious, modern hotel on one of main avenidas (Avenida del Sol) about 10 minutes from the main plaza, Plaza de Armas. Supper in hotel, checked emails in hotel’s wifi centre.

WEDNESDAY, 01 December – after breakfast, went exploring and found the tour office and introduced myself to Andrea who in turn introduced me to everyone including Julio (the boss) and Marvin (Sales/Product Manager). Good atmosphere and very interesting for me to see the ‘working environment’ in Cuzco who handle such an iconic part of the normal tourist route around Peru. Checked out shops on Avenidas del Sol full of tempting goods in the usual Peruvian style from knitwear to silver and so on.

At 1345, collected from the hotel and taken on a group CUZCO city tour which started at the Plaza Armas and the Cathedral (including the Black Christ. Then the Santo Domingo Convent Monastery which was built over the Koriacancha temple one of the most important temples devoted to worship the sun. Amazing examples of Inca stonework. Walked around the oldest parts of Cuzco with its very narrow streets. Strong Inca presence here in the heartland of this ancient civilisation.

From central Cuzco, we drove just out of the city to SACSAYHUAMAN which looked at first glance like an Inca theme park with menhirs standing up to 29.5 feet and weighing 350 tons. What a site to see along with the temple and amphitheatre of Kenko and the Red Fortress of Puca Pucara. The Incas were great builders and architects able to build without mortar, cleverly fitting huge stones together which still stand to this day. In the background overlooking the city was a huge, white statue of Christ (aka Corcovado, Rio de Janeiro). We also visited the Banos del Inca and Tambomachay, a fascinating site dedicated to the worship of water. Back to the hotel at 1730. A busy tour and strong learning curve to understanding the brilliance of the Incas.

THURSDAY, 02 December – main luggage to be left at the hotel (as I would return in 3 days) and light luggage to be taken on the journey to Macchu Pichu via The Sacred Valley. Collected by tour bus and drove out of Cuzco on the way to Pisac Market (renowned market of the area). Very scenic drive to Pisac over high areas, with valleys below. Spent only 45 minutes at PISAC Market which we all agreed was to short as this was the best market we had seen for quality and prices. Locals come to sell or exchange their produce as they have done for hundreds of years. Very colourful scenario.

Picturesque drive on to the Sacred Valley with a succession of picturesque town, agricultural terraces and many archaeological sites as well as the most famous corn in the world combined with an exceptional climate. Lunch at the Sonesta Posada in Ucay, Sacred Valley. Lovely place, delicious food. Drove on to OLLANTAYTAMBO, historic Inca town and site- quite aweinspiring and thought by some to surpass the splendours of Macchu Picchu! As I had yet to see Macchu Picchu, I did agree it was the most magnificent Inca site I had seen – and gazed in wonder at how the Inca’s could possibly have achieved such precision on almost impossible terrain. Look out towers, warehouses, worship sites clinging to mountain sides.

From Ollantaytambo, we drove down the mountain back to the Sacred Valley and I was delivered to my hotel, CASONA DE YUCAY, in the town of Yucay at 1700. Historic hotel well laid out with gardens and flowers everywhere. Comfortable room and no TV, who needs it! The original Conquistadores led by Pizarro came this way in the 16th century. Views up the towering peaks which gazed down on the valley floor. Fine arched entrance which I stepped through and walked along the main street – very quiet with not a tourist in site and I felt like this was the real everyday Peru. Such a change from busy Puno and Cuzco. Delicous supper. I will always remember Urubamba and the wonderful Casona de Yucay.

FRIDAY, 03 December – up at 0345, breakfast 0400 and collected by coach at 0430 and off to the railway station at Ollanta departing 0630 on the train for Aguas Calientes, the town below Machu Picchu. Very comfortable train with windows in roof to view the high peaks towering above the railway line as we meandered along by FAST FLOWING RIO Urubamba. Our conductor pointed out the start of the famous Inca Trail and we saw pack horses tended by local people descending down the mountain sides as well as trekkers plodding along the famous Trail. Drinks and snacks included in the fare served in a very jovial manner by the attendant rail staff. Weather was cloudy and eventually rain came down. Arrived at Aguas Calientes station approx 0830, met by Patricia. In due course, our group of six plus guide Patricia boarded one of the waiting buses to make the 20 minute journey up the steep hillside to Macchu Picchu.

Quite a hair raising journey on the switchbacks but we arrived safely and a few minutes later after joining a small queue only, we were led onto the spectacular site of MACHU PICCHU. Had to pinch myself to make sure I wasn’t dreaming as this iconic view was something I had only viewed on pages of a book all my life but now here I was actually seeing it in reality. We shared the site with some other tourists but as it was the wet season, that helped to keep the ‘hordes’ at bay. Happy to say that the sun came out after 5 minutes so were able to take in the views courtesy of the Sun God!

Patricia supplied headphones which were very useful to provide background information of the history as we walked in awe around the area in between Patricia giving explainations on particularly important points. How did the Incas build this place – what an achievement! and thank goodness the Spanish Conquistadores never found it… Machu Picchu was ‘formally’ discovered in 1911 by an American explorer from Yale University called Hiram Bingham. The citadel is one of the most extraordinary examples of landscape architecture in the world. It straddles a mountain ridge surrounded by lush tropical forest.

Patricia showed us the Main Square, the Royal Quarters, the Temple of the Three Windows, the Circular Towers, the Sacred Sun Dial and Burial Gounds.

The tour finished at 1300 and I had lunch included at the Sanctuary Lodge, situated by the entrance to Machu Picchu. Joined part of our group including two Australians and a Japanese for this very tasty lunch.

I had intended to go back onto the site but by 1500, was feeling weary and as I had a ticket for the following day, I decided to take the bus back down the hill to Aguas Calientes and check in to my hotel, the MACHU PICCHU INN. I went back to the Lima Tours office and Patricia escorted me to the hotel which was very modern and spacious run by very friendly staff. About an hour later, heavy rain started and did not stop for the remainder of the day, into the night and next morning!! So I realised my mistake not to stay at Machu Picchu the previous afternoon and wander at leisure around the different areas including the classic view from the Shepherds Hut. This is an important point to mention to clients when visiting in the rainy season (or any season) – when at Macchu Picchu, spend as much time as possible there and don’t depend on another visit as it may not happen!

Macchu Picchu is a shoppers’ paradise but my best buy was the book written by Hiram Bingham telling of his exploits in Peru. There is to be a big celebration here in July 2011 to celebrate the anniversary (100 years) since his discovery of Machu Picchu. Tour operators are promoting Peru heavily to encourage clients to visit during this special year.
Delicious supper at the hotel.

SATURDAY, 04 December – woke up to the sound of lashing rain! I had had ideas of climbing Huayna Picchu which is the steep peak overlooking Macchu Picchu but definitely decided this was not a good plan in slippy conditions. After a hearty breakfast, I spent the morning wandering around Aguas Calientes including a visit to Patricia at her office. We took the return rail journey at 1400 back to Ollantaytambo where we were met by a coach for the drive to Cuzco. The rain continued unabated all the way back to Cuzco! Disappointing weather but at least I can tell future clients what can be expected when travelling early December.

Back to the Eco Inn and overnight. Wandered up to Plaza de Armas which was busy with sightseers and shoppers.

SUNDAY, 05 December – collected from the Eco Inn at 0900 by Carlos and driven to the airport for my flight at 1100 to Puerto Maldonado and the Peruvian Amazon Basin! Very comfortable 55 minute flight with Lan Peru with leather seats and plenty of legroom. Took photos before landing of the orange/brown Madre de Dios river winding its way through the dark green rain forest.

What a blast of heat hit us as we stepped off the plane. Met by Mario and Leon from Sandoval Lodge and taken to the Inkanatura office to rearrange our luggage so that only small hand luggage would be taken on our trip to Sandoval Lake Lodge in the TAMBOPATA NATIONAL RESERVE. Also fitted with wellington boots from the office store – all necessities for rain forest life! Set off to the port where myself and one other guest (from Norway) plus Leon and Mario boarded a motor canoe for the 25 minute ride up the wide Madre de Dios river which was fascinating. Lunch presented in banana leaves of rice concoction but very tasty, water and fruit juice.

Eventually arrived at our landing stage for the starting point of our one hour trek through the jungle. Mario and Leon carried our small bags and we had the wellingtons plus day packs. Definitely must make clients aware of fitness levels for this walk/trek. Eric, from Norway, had difficulty walking and had to be ‘rescued’ by rickshaw half way through the trek. The heat is also a major factor to take into consideration. There were two members of camp staff who loaded supplies for the lodge onto a rickshaw cart which was also hauled along the track to the small channel where the long dugout canoes waited. Felt like a real explorer as we set off down the channel for the open lake of Sandoval and were paddled across the lake to the very welcome sight of SANDOVAL LODGE arriving at 1530. Usually 5 hours is allowed from plane arrival to reaching the lodge taking into account journey to office, luggage adjustment, drive to port, motor boat journey to start of trek, trek, dugout canoe journey across lake to Lodge.

Very comfortable, airy, casual, relaxed set back in the forest on a high bank overlooking the lake. A charming couple from Holland were the only other guests so the lodge was very quiet although a group of 12 was expected in two days time. Very important not to leave any food items in the room or they will be eaten! Rooms cool with mesh windows, mosquito nets.

Went for an evening walk at about 1830 with Leon, important to have a good torch to sight the forest night life which is considerable. Delicious supper sitting en famille at a long table. Lights out at 2200. A welcome nights sleep after a long, eventful day!

MONDAY, 06 December – wake up call at 0500, coffee 0545. Out on the lake in the long boat canoe with Mario and Leon paddling us along the lake shore bird spotting. Dawn chorus in full voice on this beautiful morning which was a generous reward for the very early rise. Mario and Leon were excellent ‘birders’ and pointed out a great variety of species including reed kingfisher, grey necked wood rail, hoatizin, anhinga (snake bird), osprey, tropic cormorant,striated heron, tiger heron calling. Nests of yellow rumped casique. The vegetation was stunning with a myriad of trees, shrubs and flowers towering above and reflected in the water. Not forgetting various small black caimans around the shoreline. Because the water is so clear and unpolluted, easy to photograph these creatures underwater.

The sun reached the canoe at 0615 and out came the wide brimmed hat! As we paddled across the lake to a promontory, hey presto! we found the giant river otter family! What a marvellous treat to be lucky enough to see them -frolicking in the water giving us quite a show before they swam away to the other side of the lake. Statistics – 2 metres long and diet of 4kgs of fish per day! Only one family per oxbow lake and later in the day we were shown a video detailing the life of otters which was very understandable after seeing the otter family in reality that very morning.

We were also very lucky to see 4 red howler monkeys.

Thank you, Leon and Mario, for an unforgettable early morning experience on the lake which ended as we paddled back to the jetty of Sandoval Lodge at 0830.

A hearty breakfast shared with Marieke and Douwe, the Dutch couple, who were preparing to leave the lodge and travel back to Lima for their KLM flight to Amsterdam that evening. Mid morning walk through the forest and learnt that some is primary (oldest) and some is secondary, which is the regrowth after the primary forest has been cut down. Leon was a wealth of knowledge telling me about the trees e.g. iron trees, brazil nut trees, plants, birds and monkeys. High temperatures typical of rain forest. Lunch at 1300, followed by sunset canoe ‘cruise’ on the lake at 1630. Very hot and because of this, less wildlife visible than in the morning. I was given the spotting job with torch as darkness fell – lots of red eyes, mainly black caimans. Monkey population was in good voice with constant shrieks and shouts. Maybe they were talking about us! Enjoyed my final supper in Peru followed by packing for the early start next morning.

TUESDAY, 07 December – up at 0600, breakfast and departed the lodge at 0730. Sad to leave as found this experience at Sandoval quite unique and contrasted well with the other parts of my visit to Peru. Across the lake, up the creek, fast walk through the forest (50 minutes this time) to the landing stage for the motor boat journey up the Rio Madre de Dios to Puerto Maldonado. A notable sight was the partly completed bridge across the river which is part of the highway linking the east coast of Brazil with the Peruvian west coast thus spanning South America. According to the latest issue of the Geographical magazine published by the Royal Geographical Society (of which I’m a member) the bridge was supposed to have been officially opened in December but there are still several gaps in the structure so obviously work is behind schedule.

We were met at the jetty and whisked through the busy roads to the Inkanatura office where repacking was briskly done. Puerto Maldonado has a frontier feel and not surprising as it is probably not more than 25 years since the place was virgin jungle!

As a matter of interest, I carried the wellingtons back to the Inkanatura office from Sandoval but, in fact, didn’t need them. I can understand during wet conditions, they would have been invaluable. I questioned why the wellingtons couldn’t be kept at the lodge to save the carrying back and forth but Leon said this was the best all round way.

Smooth flight back to Lima via Cuzco, arriving 1340 and met by the charming Sonia, from Lima Tours office. Excellent driver called Juan Carlos. Lima traffic among worst I have known in the world! I had booked a city tour as my KLM flight didn’t leave until 2035 that evening and I did want to see some of Lima’s city sights before flying back to Europe. Lima was the prize jewel of the Spanish colonies and for 300 years the richest city in the Americas. We drove along by the Pacific Coast to Miraflores – viewed surfers practising in the shallower waters. Then on to the smart area of Barranco with many embassy houses.

The historic downtown colonial area declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1991, has many yellow ochre painted houses with balconies after the Hapsburg European style. Lima is also a city of fascinating museums that exhibit treasures from pre Hispanic cultures such as the Incas. We visited the wonderful ?????? family home since 1530. Fabulous furniture, paintings, wooden floors, decorated ceilings and a World Heritage site. The daughter of the owner of the house (now 99) is one of the owners of Lima Tours hence the unique chance to visit the mansion.

Finally we visited Plaza Major with its fine cathedral. Many fine balconied buildings, many ochre coloured, bordered the Plaza with The Three Kings from the Orient set out on one such balcony. Under the early evening sun with palm trees adding decor with the scene, this was a very special finale to my last few hours in Peru. Sonia and Juan Carlos delivered me to the airport where Juan Carlos assisted me with departure tax and check in.

OPINION OF PERU
a) Very impressed with the country and people. Scenic, historical, cultural and helpful, charming people – all aspects appeal to the visitor.
b) So much more to Peru than the Southern Circuit which is the best known in tourist terms. The more northerly areas like Trujillo, Iquitos, Central Highlands hold a vast array of possibilities.
c) The questions is…. Machu Picchu at the beginning or towards the end of an itinerary??

Dream of Malinche by Antonio Ruiz

Had the Mexican painter Antonio Ruiz been Peruvian and painted the Dream of Huáscar instead of the Dream of Malinche, how would it have looked? Also with a Spanish colonial village spanning the rise and fall of his sleeping figure in bed? Perhaps set in the same room in Cajamarca where his brother Atahualpa had literally tons of gold brought by bearers to appease in vain the murderous intentions of Pizarro?

The same atmosphere of anxiety and troubled sleep would surely prevail. Huáscar was the elder son, and was appointed Inca by his father, Huayna Capac. Had Atahualpa not gained the support of the army and then challenged Huáscar, it is quite possible that the Spanish would have lost. Instead of approximately 160,000 people fighting each other in the ensuing civil war (100,000 in Atahualpa’s army versus 60,000 with Huáscar), a unified army could have made mincemeat of Pizarro’s force of 106 foot-soldiers and 62 horsemen.

Or could it? Atahualpa’s army of 100,000 soldiers was already overkill for the task, but the surprise seizure of Atahualpa at Cajamarca square had the effect of paralysing a suddenly-headless Inca empire. Presumably the same could have happened with Huáscar and a larger army – unless he would have proven less brave, proud or imprudent in accepting Pizarro’s suspicious invitation to come unarmed to the square for a chat.

Who knows? But neither brother can be enjoying sweet dreams, even if the bed is comfortable.